On a slightly overcast Sunday morning in April, I put on my hiking shoes, tossed my camera in the car, grabbed a water
bottle and headed out the door for Descanso Gardens in La Canada-Flintridge. Hailed as one of the most spectular locations in Southern California, this 160-acre oasis contains forests, streams, a lake, a bird sanctuary,
tram tours, hiking trails, a 22-room home, a gift shop, café court gardens and a Japanese teahouse and koi pond. Located in the midst of California chaparral, Descanso Gardens is the antithesis of frantic life lived
in the city. An Angelano for twenty-five years, I appreciated the opportunity to step away from life lived on the freeways, in malls, with the assault on my senses, and enter another world through the iron filigree
garden gate. When you visit, do this: take a deep breath, drink in the rich sights and perfumed smells of this location. Open your pores to this tranquil and delicious environment. The well manicured lawns, the colorful
flower beds, the trickle of a brook over smooth stones, the solitude of the bird pond, and koi gliding between rocks in the pool. Now, step inside.
At the ticket booth the office staff told me about the wonders of
the nature reserve and the wildlife, including deer, brush rabbits, raccoons, squirrels, and possums. On any given day, these four-legged creatures have been spotted among the shelter of the old Oak Forest. A bargain at
the three dollar admission fee, I had a map of my environment along with a brochure about the history of the gardens.
In 1769, the King of Spain owned the current area known as Descanso Gardens claimed for him by the
Spanish explorer Gaspar De Portola. Years later, a Governor deeded the 36,000-acre site to Corporal Jose Maria Verdugo in 1784, as part of a vast rancho. Verdugo died in 1831 and his land was divided between his son and
daughter, who retained ownership until 1869. Then came a period of years where the land was continually bought, sold, and subdivided. Not until E. Manchester Boddy, publisher of the Los Angeles Daily News, in 1937
purchased the 160 acres now known as Descanso Gardens, did development begin on this magnificent parcel of land.
One of the first things Mr. Boddy constructed on the site of this former Spanish rancho was
a two-story 22-room home he called "Rancho del Descanso." Today, this structure is used as a hospitality house for the Garden. The hilltop house overlooks 25 acres of live oak forest and is lined with mature
camellias. At the time of the original sale, and with an eye toward the future, the newspaper entrepreneur also purchased an additional 280 acres north of the property containing streams, which today supply the fresh
spring water for the gardens.
Seduced by the beauty of the camellia, Mr. Boddy soon employed an expert to cultivate different varieties of the plant. Before long, he had assembled a world-renowned collection.
Together, they were able to bring back to popularity a flower that had passed from favor with the public and establish a camellia nursery and cut flower business. The newspaperman had a love for a myriad of different
flower species and soon divided his interests between roses, irises, lilacs and native California plants.
In 1953, Boddy sold his magnificent home and property to the County of Los Angeles and Descanso
Gardens opened to the public. By 1957, the Gardens were in danger of being closed, until 25 area residents stepped forward to save the historic property and formed a non-profit organization to protect and promote the
interests of the Gardens.
Bounded on the north by the San Gabriel Mountains and on the south by the San Rafael hills, Descanso Gardens contains the largest outdoor planting of camellias in the world. More than
100,000 plants grace the winding paths of the California live oak forest that has become a laboratory for the research and development of new species of camellias. 400-plus varieties of camellias thrive amid the
filtered shade, with its natural leaf mold on the forest floor. In this setting there are camellia specimens from China, Japan, England, and the southern region of the United States. Under such ideal conditions, some
camellias exceed 20 feet in height. Rays of sun cast shadows on the ground, underneath the camellias that towered overhead, as I savored in the beauty of their blossoms.
Situated within the Oak Forest and
surrounded by the tranquil effects of water and dozens of colorful koi fish is the Japanese teahouse. Giant pink azalea plants delicately surround the koi pond. The design of the teahouse is authentic, including the
imported blue tile roof. The red Shinto Bridge used to cross the stream in front of the teahouse is called "The Smiling Bridge." Black, orange, and white koi fish, known as living jewels, leisurely circle in
the small pools that surround the teahouse.
Halfway through the walking tour of the grounds I found myself trying to figure out how I could possibly stay undiscovered for a week or longer. Maybe the groundskeepers
wouldn't find me for weeks. In any case, I had my camera to record the beauty of my trip.
An incredible bed of bearded irises, brighter than any rainbow, snuggled in a curve of the path that winds through
the flatlands of the garden. The profusion of color ranged from deep bluish/black to ivory-yellow. Over 150 varieties of irises hold court for the garden visitor, a surprising visual treat. A number of varieties of iris
are gold or silver medal winners at iris society shows.
Across the path from the irises is Descanso Lake and Bird Sanctuary. On the shores of this lake, bird watchers have spotted as many as 120 different species.
The screened-in shelter on the lakeshore offered a view of both land and water birds. While enjoying the quietude of the sanctuary, I spotted a number of mallard ducks sunning themselves on shore, while others swam on
the lake. Like a jetliner coming in for a landing, a white swan smoothed out its' flight pattern and landed on the lake sending ripples of water forward shore. Glints of sun reflected off wet feathers, as the swan and
the mallard ducks circled the surface of the lake, content in motion. Camera in hand, motionless, I waited for the perfect moment, my window of opportunity. I snapped the shutter as they swam directly in front of my
camera lens.
As I left the ducks and birds behind, I continued on the path that led me to the entrance to the Lilac Garden, in the southeast corner of the nature reserve. The magnificent shades of
lavender, purple and white blossoms with their heady show and sweet fragrance, renewed my love affair with the lilac. This is a showplace with 100 varieties of lilacs, an experience you don't want to miss. During the
1960's, a program took shape through careful planning of the grounds superintendent, that resulted in the Descanso series of lilacs, among them California Rose, White Spring, and the Descanso Giant. These varieties were
specifically cultivated for the dry, hot temperatures of the southern California climate. These lilacs have been hybridized at Descanso Gardens and continue to add pleasure and beauty to the setting and surrounding
areas.
I thought nothing could be more spectacular than the lilacs until I was treated to the sight of the rose garden: over 5 acres of ground planted in roses. Not only are they beautiful, these roses serve as a
living history project for this extremely popular flower. The paths in the rose garden follow a circular arrangement. In chronological order to the timeline of history, these roses include examples from the Middle Ages,
the Renaissance, Victorian England, and from our early American colonies.
At the end of my walking tour of the gardens, I felt particularly fortunate to have a place of such magnificent beauty, where history is
preserved and nature is cherished. My first trip to Descanso Gardens won't be my last.
