San Francisco . . . The Eternal City by the Bay

©2001-2003 Judith Stock

A View to the City:

Breath-taking panoramas are plentiful around every street corner, down narrow lanes and over city streets. Immerse yourself in the sights and sounds of city life. For a lofty perspective and an opportunity to take the cities pulse, be sure to visit the Sky Deck Observatory. At One Embarcadero Center, take the elevator 565 feet up and feast your eyes on an extraordinary 360-degree view of the cityscape. The open-air decks and two floor-to-ceiling glass walls showcase the celebrated skyline. On a clear day you can almost reach out and touch Alcatraz Island, now part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. Capture tales of notorious henchman and mobsters who lived their lives in a most unusual federal penitentiary by taking the daily public tour of "the rock."

Another island in the bay, Angel Island, offers spectacular views of the Marin Headlands, the San Francisco skyline, and the Golden Gate Bridge. With an illustrious history, the island served as Indian hunting grounds, a processing station for immigrants, German and Japanese POWs, returning soldiers, a Nike missile base, and today the island is an active Coast Guard station. To get to the island take the ferry from Fisherman's Wharf at Pier 41. One hour tram tours run on regular schedules.

Neighborhoods of the City:

A city of neighborhoods, each rich in culture with its own distinctive charm and character, rises up among flat lands and hilltop bluffs, peppering the landscape with diversity and uniqueness. The Civic Center and the Financial District make up the downtown area. A little north of downtown is the Embarcadero, Chinatown, North Beach, and Fisherman's Wharf. South of Market Street is SoMa, the Mission District and the Castro. A little west is Haight-Ashbury, Golden Gate Park, Japantown, Pacific Heights, the Sunset and Richmond Districts and the Presidio.

The Financial and Civic Center district is a mecca of style, energy and chic sophistication. Along Geary Street you will find the thriving theater district. Ring the doorbell and wait to enter smart antique shops lining Sansome Street.

The port of San Francisco is the Embarcadero, an historic set of buildings facing the bay, bounded on the north end by Fisherman's Wharf. Further south toward downtown, the district caters more to the power lunch crowd. On Tuesdays, Saturdays, and Sundays fruit and vegetable growers, fisherman and area restaurants set up stands at the Ferry Plaza Farmer's Market, where produce is unequaled anywhere in the city.

Eight blocks bound the area known as Chinatown from Bush Street to Columbus Avenue. This location between downtown and North Beach makes it convenient for a leisurely evening stroll. So what if you can't read the street signs in Chinese? It adds atmosphere.

Also known as 'Little Italy' or 'Little City,' North Beach is situated between Russian and Telegraph Hill, just down the street from Coit Tower. The main street is Columbus, lined with coffee shops, and Italian restaurants. The other main street is Broadway, with numberless bars, strip shows, swing clubs and upscale restaurants.

SoMa started out life as an industrial/transportation center. Today it is home to the city's nightlife, with more dance clubs than any other neighborhood. By day it is a haven for emerging technology with multimedia, video, and upstart Internet companies housed in converted warehouses and artists' lofts. The locals often refer to this area as South Park or Multimedia Gulch.

Where authentic Latin meets the city is the Mission District. Fresh hand-made tortillas are easy to find at any number of southern and central American restaurants. Find lively entertainment for an evening with lots of hip bars and hot salsa.

The Castro is famous for its large gay and lesbian population. Located in the Eureka Valley on the eastern base of Twin Peaks, this district is often lavished with sunshine when other areas are bleak and overcast. Wall to wall shops, bars, cafes and restaurants line the streets between 20 ^th on the northern slope of Sanchez Hill and the upper end of Market Street. A less frenzied atmosphere is offered on Market Street from Castro to Laguna.

The area known as the Marina, where old money and young professionals call home, is one of the most affluent neighborhoods in town. You will find the Palace of Fine Arts and the Exploratorium here.

Pacific Heights is one of the most desirable neighborhoods in the city. With sweeping panoramas of the San Francisco Bay and the Golden Gate Bridge, it is easy to understand why. Fillmore Street, from Sutter Street to Broadway is the main commercial thoroughfare that caters to the upscale clientele.

Usually blanketed in fog throughout the year, the Sunset District has two things going for it, walking distance to the ocean and Golden Gate Park. Quaint neighborhood restaurants, shops, bookstores and bars foster a small town feeling.

Attractions:

The Golden Gate Bridge, which was supposed to be impossible to build, opened in 1937, to become the most photographed man-made structure on the planet. 1.2 miles of orange-red steel connect the City to Marin County, Sausalito and Tiburon. Walking across the bridge is free, but drivers pay $3.00 toll for southbound vehicles.

San Francisco's new $40 million state-of-the-art aquarium Underwater World at Pier 39 sports sidewalks that move people through 300 feet of transparent tunnels. In this underwater ambiance, watching spotted leopard sharks and sea urchins swim effortlessly overhead is the ordinary.

The 210-foot Art Deco Coit Tower in North Beach, perched atop Telegraph Hill, affords excellent panoramic views of the city. The inside ground level walls are covered with local artist's work from the Work Project Administration (WPA) murals from 1934. Built by philanthropist Lillie Hitchcock to honor fire fighters, who fought the 1906 earthquake fire, the structure looks like the end of a fire hose.

Grant Avenue is the main entrance to Chinatown, the largest Chinese community outside Asia, with a flashy Dragon Gate at Bush Street. With predominant colors of red and gold, there is a profusion of food markets, shops, restaurants and temples, vying for attention amid incense and Peking duck hanging in the shop windows.

The grand architecture of City Hall and Moscone Center make walking a treat. On your walk check out the pulse of the city. The lively United Nations Plaza hosts the farmers market, an ethnically diverse kaleidoscope of flowers, produce, and seafood on Wednesday and Sunday from 7:00AM until 5:00PM.

Golden Gate Park, reclaimed from a barren stretch of sand dunes in 1870, boasts more than 1,000 lush acres. Today those acres include nine lakes and a lily pond, and are home to three of the city's finest museums, along with the Strybing Arboretum and Botanical Gardens. At Stowe Lake, the Boathouse rents paddle boats, rowboats, roller skates and bicycles. Great for a lazy Sunday stroll around the lake. Don't be surprised if you come face to face with a wandering bison or two. The Park is museum headquarters that includes the M.H. deYoung Memorial Museum, The California Academy of Sciences, the Asian Art Museum, the Steinhart Aquarium, Morrison Planetarium, and the Natural History Museum. This park has something for everyone but a day is hardly enough time to take in all the sights and sounds. The Strybing Arboretum and Botanical Gardens are open daily with free tours where feeding the ducks at the small lake in the Japanese style garden is a wonderful experience. Rest a spell at the outdoor café at the entrance to the garden on sunny days. Where the sand meets the water, don't miss seeing the two beloved old wooden Dutch windmills, landmarks to city residents.

The Presidio was a military post for 218 years under the flags of three nations including Spain, Mexico, and the United States. Key to military victories, the base played a major role in every U.S. military engagement since the Mexican-American War and in 1994 the base was retired from service. Often called the 'Jewel of the Pacific,' within the 1,480 acres of prime real estate are hundreds of historic buildings, a museum, a national cemetery, an airfield, miles and miles of hiking and biking trails and some of the best vistas in the world. Designated a National Historic Landmark District in 1962, the architectural styles include Greek Revival, Queen Anne, Colonial Revival, Mission Revival, and Mediterranean and Italian Renaissance Revival.

Near the Presidio in the affluent Marina section of town is the Palace of Fine Arts and Exploratorium, one of a few remaining Greco-Roman examples of the Panama-Pacific International Exposition in 1915. Take an enchanted early evening stroll around the lake while the filtered light streams through the columns - unforgettable.

The oldest building founded in 1776 by Father Serra is Mission Dolores the sixth Franciscan mission built along El Camino Real by Spanish craftsmen. In the heart of the Mission District, in a past life, this mission was once a saloon for a brief period after the Spanish abandoned the missions in the 19 ^th Century.

The Cliff House

The original Cliff House was built in 1863 and sold to philanthropist, millionaire and one-time mayor of San Francisco, Adolph Sutro. After the fire consumed the building Sutro rebuilt the structure in the shape of a French Chateau that reached up eight stories with spires and an observation tower two hundred feet above sea level. One year after the earthquake in 1906, the structure was destroyed by fire again. Rebuilt by Sutro's daughter, Emma in 1909 the neoclassic design survived two world wars and the depression and was sold to George Whitney in 1952. The National Park Service acquired the famous property in 1977 and is now part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. The view of sandy beach, breaking surf, the sea lions on famed Seal Rock and ships entering the harbor make a colorful backdrop for dinner and cocktails.

Camera Obscura

A few yards behind the Cliff House is a building shaped like a big camera. For $1.00 visitors can step into a small room dwarfed by what looks like a satellite dish. What you see on the dish is a rotating picture of what is going on outside. It works on the principle of a periscope and reflects the view through a flattened mirror and a series of concave and convex lenses, onto a parabolic or curved screen. Ansel Adams spent so much time at Camera Obscura the owners didn't have the heart to charge him admission.

Sutro Baths

At the turn of the 19^th Century the Sutro Baths were extremely popular. Spread over three acres, the architectural detail and engineering imagination was impressive for that time in history. A classic Greek portal that opened to a massive glass enclosure containing one fresh water tank, five salt water tanks at different temperatures and a large salt water tank at ocean temperature. Forgetting your bathing suit wasn't a problem; bathers could rent suits and towels. With tropical plants and palms it must have looked like a glass enclosed tropical garden. By 1937 the grandeur of another time had been sold by Sutro's grandson and now is part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. This lavish structure was totally demolished by fire. But if you use your imagination, you will be able to see it on the bluff behind the Cliff House .

Dining:

Native sons and daughters meet at Scoma's, located in the heart of Fisherman's Wharf Pier 47 nestled among the fishing fleet. This family owned seafood restaurant was home to fisherman looking for a meal before setting sail with the fleet.

Boudin Soughdough Bakery & Café, bakes the original San Francisco sourdough French bread. With a bakery on nearly every corner, or so it seems, and four waterfront locations, master bakers still use Isidore Boudin's traditional methods using the original 'mother dough' yeast starter that dates back to the very first loaf in 1849. The dark walnut bread is an easy winner but they also have great salads, soups, pastries and espresso.

McCormick & Kuleto's Seafood Restaurant in Ghirardelli Square is popular with visitors and natives alike for its good cuisine including fresh, Northwest-style seafood. The ambiance is spectacular with panoramic views of several San Francisco historical landmarks.

In North Beach, the Stinking Rose serves up garlic like it is going out of style in their Italian inspired menu. Only those diners with a great love of garlic need show up at this dining emporium, where the chef add food to the garlic.

Ebisu is a real find in a city with tons of Asian restaurants. This relatively undiscovered treasure is definitely off the beaten path in the Sunset District. Order sushi or tempura dinners; either way the service is gracious and the ambiance is relaxed.

Compass Rose at Powell and Post Streets at Union Square downtown in the landmark St. Francis Hotel is one of the best kept secrets in town. High tea and finger sandwiches are regally served in this 1930s inspired lounge.

Dottie's True Blue Café downtown between Geary and O'Farrell Streets, is a tradition in this city. Not in the prettiest part of town but the pancakes and French toast are truly amazing and there is a bakery on the premises. Extremely popular with the natives, it's always crowded with weekend lines stretching around the block. Signature dishes are omelets with black bean cake and zucchini bread. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

Khan Toke Thai House, in the Richmond District, invites diners to slip out of their shoes at the door, leave their life in the fast lane behind and breath in the quiet, intimate, and dimly lit atmosphere of the best Thai restaurants in the city.

The Buena Vista Café is really legendary in the city by the bay. If you don't have an Irish Coffee here you've probably not been to the city. Located right at the cable car turnaround at the corner of Hyde and Bay Streets, American cuisine is served daily with great vistas of the bay beyond.

The natives have few enough restaurants to enjoy a leisurely repast outdoors. The Ramp, at the corner of Mariposa and China Basin Streets is one of the best. So when the sun peeks its head out from behind the grayish clouds, go straight here where you can enjoy roadside diner food on a sunny pier.

North Beach Restaurant takes its name from the area known as North Beach, with more Italian restaurants than anywhere else in the city. This traditional eatery serves up remarkable fare from a 27-year old menu. Their legendary Italian fare is served both in the basement wine cellar and in the first floor dining room.

Diners come from all over town to stand in line for a chance to eat the best Chinese food in the city in Chinatown at the House of Nanking. The restaurant scores low on ambiance and service but high on food value and quality. In this tiny restaurant seating capacity is a paltry 40 and reservations are not taken.

In the business district, Farallon is the newest 'high-end' seafood eatery in town. Both food and service are exceptionally good. If you have a 'line-o-credit' bring it to pay for your dinner check. The restaurant décor is well worth the trip alone like jellyfish lights, and caviar staircase. Everything looks like it belongs below the waterline.

Shopping:

The Cannery is a three-story complex that includes fine restaurants along with courtyard entertainment. The Museum of the City of San Francisco is located on the third floor.

Ghirardelli Square, the former home of a chocolate factory, is now quarters to 75 shops, galleries, and restaurants. The building is on the National Historic Landmark Registry.

Between Geary and Post Streets, Union Square dates back to 1860 and is the site of a Civil War demonstration. Now this famous square holds court as the heart of downtown surrounded by major upscale retailers like Macy's, Neiman Marcus, and Saks Fifth Avenue. Maiden Lane, a two-block street off Union Square, showcases quaint shops and boasts the only building in San Francisco designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, the Circle Gallery that looks like a smaller rendition of the famed Guggenheim in New York.

Nightclubbing:

Through the week nightlife livens up the hours before dawn but on the weekend watch out because all the stops disappear. In SoMa (south of Market) there's extraordinary night club activity with dozens of bars, cafes, clubs and breweries. The 11^th street corridor is the best known clubbing street in town portraying itself as Bourbon Street West.

If you love ale and stout, you've come to the right place, Twenty-Tank Brewery. The brew master makes half a dozen varieties on the premises. Hand-tossed pizza baked in a wood oven complements the carefully brewed beer.

Slims, located in the hub of nightlife, south of Market, opened in 1988 by legendary artist Boz Scaggs. You will find a variety of music to listen to including blues, R&B, Cajun/Zydeco, Jazz, and Alternative. The readers of the San Francisco Chronicle awarded the nightclub Best Bar and Club two years running. The décor includes chandeliers, brick walls, and a bar reminiscent of those found in the French Quarter in New Orleans. The club presents a regular slate of touring and local entertainment. Sometimes the bar's owner makes unannounced appearances.

You can engage in people watching in North Beach because at night it seems this is the place where everyone packs the sidewalks. There are several energetic cafes, clubs, and places to unwind along with great restaurants, bars and jazz clubs.

For a causal and friendly place try the San Francisco Brewing Company, a microbrewery, that offers free jazz or blues. If guests want to play music themselves, instruments are available. If you're into games, then play darts, cards, chess, or backgammon. This building was an old saloon around 1907 that became a brewery in 1985. The ambiance is friendly, casual and inexpensive for a night out.

The Hiball Lounge, a retro-style nightclub that features live eclectic music, a mix of jazz, swing, and contemporary classics. Red booths, velvet curtains, a padded tigerskin wall, and a tribute to Frank Sinatra wall highlight the 50s style interior. Free swing dance lessons are offered four nights a week. A lively crowd dressed in 40s and 50s attire dance away the evening.

Moving Around the City:

Getting around town is no problem. Ride the revered cable car; the world's only moving historic landmark. The line begins at Powell and Market Streets. Join the conductor and patrons to hand-turn the cable cars. Take the 'imperial salamander' or subway as the natives call it, or take a trolley, bus or cab.

This city invites walking tours, a great way to see the history, architecture, and the character of neighborhood life. The city has nearly 50 hills with some hills so steep the city fathers felt compelled to score the cement for better traction. At the top of the hills you are rewarded by magnificent views, if you don't mind being a mountain climber.

Lombard Street, built in the 1920s and often called "the crookedest street in the world," between Hyde and Leavenworth Streets, offers the opportunity to drive or walk down a 40-degree slope of hairpin S-curves paved in brick and lined with remarkable architecture and impeccably manicured gardens.

Farewell to the City by the Bay:

Rudyard Kipling left these telling words "San Francisco has one drawback. 'Tis hard to leave." Fortunate indeed are the 724,000 people who make up the population of the City of San Francisco, with the rest of us relegated to visitor status.

Photo by Judith Stock

The beautiful San Francisco skyline

Originally published in Fleet Executive Magazine
National Association of Fleet Administrators